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India: The Cyclone of the Century

 

Supercyclone 1999, Orissa, India - this raging ocean of water had been farmlands.

Miracles in the Super Cyclone

Before we departed Orissa, Rinpoche called us all to meet with him in his shrine room. He was so kind, thanking us for coming, and he gave each of us a farewell kata as well as a red protector thread. We thanked him and bid him farewell, then got onto our tour bus and prepared to depart. Before we left, however, one of Rinpoche's monks came running down with a special Vajra-knotted kata which he tied onto the front of our bus as a special protective blessing from His Eminence. Jigme Rinpoche and his attendant, monk Tenzin Phuntsok, came with us, as we prepared to leave Orissa, ready to tour the rest of India. We had been scheduled to visit Bodhgaya, Varanasi, Patna, Vulture's Peak, the main points of Buddhist interest in India. Little did we know then that the rest of our trip would be cancelled and we would experience many miracles.

We stopped for a tea break at Lake Chilika, India, thinking that after tea we would continue on to Bubaneshwar where we had a hotel reservation at the Oberoi. After we had been there a while, the bus driver rushed in to tell Jigme Rinpoche that a terrible cycle was hitting Bubaneshwar. We could see that the winds around us, too, at Lake Chilika were becoming quite wild. As we waited and Rinpoche considered the options, we learned a few Tibetan card games and had a great time. We also ordered dinner there. It got dark. Decisions had to be made. The busdriver came back. Communications were no longer possible with Bubaneshwar. But the last he had heard the cyclone was very terrible and great destruction was happening. Jigme Rinpoche meditated on the matter and then said, "We will leave now then." There was no question in anyone's minds. If he said we would go, we would go. And we left on faith that with His Eminence's protection, and with Jigme Rinpoche's seeing, we would be OK. We had no idea then, however, how extremely severe the storm had become. We were on that bus for over 30 hours, with a distance of only about 250 miles to go. We spent the night in terrific rainstorms, clunking over fallen trees, sawing limbs, cutting through muddy gullies, waiting. . . waiting . . . waiting behind lines of stopped trucks and busses, clunking over more trees, sploshing through water, running outside in raging winds to go to the bathroom. By daylight we were getting close to Bubaneshwar, but every foot of travel along the devastated roads was a major task. The most dangerous part of the trip was when we came to the region where a 33-foot tidal wave had roared through. On our way going down to the monastery, this area had been nice farmlands. Now as far as the eye could see in every direction was only a raging brown ocean of water pulling itself back to the Bay of Bengal. We had to cross over about 6 narrow bridges in this water, with torrents flooding over the bridge as well as under the bridge, and we all knew this could be very deadly if anything happened to delay us here, that we had a limited time before these roads washed out to sea taking everything and everyone with them. Fortunately we did make it across safely. It took us very long to find anywhere to stay but we did find a place and we had food for three days until we could depart. Being "wet" takes on a whole new meaning when you are totally soaked, everything you have is wet, and there is no hope of drying out and everything smells of mildew. But the wondrous thing was that the members of the pilgrimage group were in every high spirits. No one freaked out. No one whined or complained. We developed a new closeness and sense of true faith. There was no question that we had been protected by the miraculous power of the Vajra Master, his blessing had carried us through with perfect timing and freedom from harm. And despite the crowds of beings wanted to leave the area, we were actually on the very first flight out of Bubaneshwar to New Delhi.

Safety in New Delhi

Cyclonic winds destroyed these signs and overturned homes.

After arriving safely in New Delhi from cyclone-devastated Bubaneshwar, all 22 of us camped out in Jigme Rinpoche's two-story apartment there. Some people slept in bedrooms, some on the floor on nice mats, and we took turns sharing the bathrooms. There is a quality of freedom and joy that arises after surviving a major traumatic event, especially when the realization hits home that one has truly experienced an unquestionable miracle of the protection of the Vajra Master and all of the forces he has at his command. Despite our sadness that so many people had died around us and that Orissa had been leveled by the Supercyclone of 1999, with hardly a tree left standing, personally our karma had been to come through relatively unscathed. (It turned out that approximately 10,000 people died, thousands of animals perished, and almost 15 million people were left homeless.) All the inconvenience we had to experience was that a substantial part of our planned India journey was cancelled. It is never safe to assume in life that one can always get to Bodhgaya. We did not get to Bodhgaya, Vulture's Peak, Varanasi, Patna. Yet we got to Delhi on the wings of a miracle. Thus we had a great time taking an Indian train to Agra with Jigme Rinpoche where we visited the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. We also toured a delightful marble place where supposedly they continue using the craftsmanship seen in the Taj Mahal of inlaying semiprecious stone designs into marble. Of course we dragged out heavy bags of not inexpensive marble souvenirs! Once again our pilgrims filled the hearts of local merchants with joy.

  • Welcome Breakfast at Yak & Yeti
  • Sacred Ceremonies in Pharping (YANGLE SHö)
  • The Stupas of Nepal
  • Activities in Nepal
  • India: Visiting the Tibetan Community in Orissa
  • India: The Super Cylone
  • NEXT: Return Home to U.S.