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India: Visiting the Tibetan Community in Orissa

The Monastery in Orissa

The 22 members of the Indian part of the tour flew from Kathmandu to Calcutta to Bubaneshwar and then bussed it down to the Rigon Thupten Mindrolling Monastery in Orissa. His Eminence as well as Jigme Rinpoche and monk Tenzin Phuntsok flew on Indian Airlines with us all the way to Bubaneshwar. The following morning, Rinpoche and retinue departed in an air conditioned taxi and the rest of us followed in a nice air conditioned bus. We had box lunches and bottles of water with us from the Oberoi Hotel where we had stayed the previous night in Bubaneshwar. The trip took longer than normal - about 9 or 10 hours - because a cyclone had come through a few days earlier, creating some minor water and tree obstacles that the bus had to circumnavigate. It was an interesting experience for Westerners to have to just take bathroom breaks alongside the road in India, as there really aren't any reststops in that part of Orissa, a quite remote region.

About halfway to the Monastery, there was a sudden shattering of glass near the rear of our bus. We had to stop immediately. Several students, and one in particular, were covered in thousands of pieces of shattered glass. One of the bus windows had broken due to a thrown object. All of the glass had to be removed from their skin, water poured over arms and legs, clothing removed and shaken out, and people rearranged in the bus to avoid the messy area. It turned out that many busses traveling through that town had been stoned by angry residents because their area had been neglected by the authorities after the small cyclone when funds were distributed to assist with repairs and food. We just happened to be on the receiving end of their general frustration and rage.

Orissa monastery site, upgraded and rebuilt Office/Kitchen Building.

At one point, not far from the Monastery, we stopped to eat our box lunches and to join His Eminence for a short road break. From that point forward we following Rinpoche's taxi very closely, at his request, so that we would actually arrive at the Monastery together. We did not know why he had suggested this, but we estimated he felt we might get lost if we tried to find it on our own (we didn't realize the special greeting he had in mind for us). When we arrived at Rigon Thupten Mindrolling Monastery in Orissa, it was already dark. When we exited the bus, we were immediately rushed through the gate to the monastery, along the path lined with smiling monks holding silk katas, and taken right into the monastery where other monks were performing welcoming ceremonies. We were seated on carpets on the floor in front of the thrones where His Eminence and Jigme Rinpoche sat. And we had a chance to directly experience what it means when is spoken of "Rinpoche's seat"(!!) The power, the light, the energy, the radiance, the overwhelming aura of his true nature poured from him as he sat on "his seat" and covered all of us in its glory and everlasting timeless luminosity. The people of the community came up to Rinpoche, one by one, bringing their katas, welcoming him home to India. The monks also went up for his blessing, although the little monks had to really stretch and he patted their sweet little ears and heads, beaming smiles at them.

The Tibetan Camps

Children and teacher in Tibetan school, visited by pilgrimage group in Orissa, India.

We were taken on a tour of the area and the important facilities by Jigme Rinpoche. We visited the home for the elderly and the students made a generous offering to the home to help the residents there. These elderly people were the original Tibetans who escaped across the Himalayas, many of them bringing no personal item with them, only carrying strapped to their backs the sacred Buddhist texts to be sure they survived. We also visited the Hospital where again the students made a generous offering to help them out as they operate on a bootstrap budget. One of the students also generously donated to the hospital a piece of computer software he had developed which would help them to operate more efficiently. The doctors showed us all of their facilities and services. We also toured the water purification projects that Jigme Rinpoche has developed in the Tibetan camps to develop good water and eliminate water-borne illnesses. We also visited sample houses that are being built for the people there, including a visit to the brick manufacturing facility. And of course we visited the local Tibetan carpet plant where carpetmakers are still making beautiful carpets by hand. Our group had also brought a couple dozen suitcases filled with new and used clothing and shoes for the children and adults, which no doubt made a real difference in their lives.

Teachings at the Monastery

Gesar Lingdro dancers at Orissa Monastery.

Rinpoche provided a special blessing to our pilgrimage group in that he actually gave us a Guru Rinpoche teaching in the Monastery itself. He permitted us to sit in the monastery and he gave us more detailed teachings on Guru Rinpoche than he had given us in the U.S. when he was there. And in the evening before we departed India, he arranged for the local Gesar Lingdro dancers to perform major parts of the Lingdro for us. It was a very spectacular dance event and we hated to see it end. So many of us feel such strong connections to the Gesar cycle of warrior teachings and we were thrilled to see a real performance of this mystical dance.

  • Welcome Breakfast at Yak & Yeti
  • Sacred Ceremonies in Pharping (YANGLE SHö)
  • The Stupas of Nepal
  • Activities in Nepal
  • India: Visiting the Tibetan Community in Orissa
  • NEXT: India: The Super Cylone
  • Return Home to U.S.